From
half a mile offshore, the Fiji Islands today look much the
way they did to the first Polynesians to reach these shores
3,500 years ago. More than three hundred islands in the Fiji
group are large enough to support human habitation, but even
today fewer than one third of the islands are inhabited. The
two largest islands -- Viti Levu and Vanua Levu -- together
account for 87% of the land mass and 93% of the population.
The first seafarers to land here came from a relatively crowded
chain of islands stretching back toward Southeast Asia. These
rich, empty islands must have been Nirvana to them.
The first Polynesians had Fiji to themselves for about 2,000 years before a second wave of immigrants arrived from Melanesia. Over 1,000 more years passed before Abel Tasman, the first European to discover Fiji, sailed past Taveuni in 1643. By then the Fiji Islands were well populated by a cohesive, but not entirely cooperative, mixed race.
After 3,500 years of successful, if not necessarily peaceful, existence, the addition of European greed to an already unstable and barbarous mix of tribal rivalries ushered in a particularly disastrous period for Fijians. The islands were already divided among hundreds of warring factions, and the only white men able to survive in Fiji were escaped convicts from Australia or plucky raconteurs like Charles Savage and Martin Bushart, who quickly allied themselves with the strongest chiefs and earned their everlasting respect by introducing the wonders of powder and shot.
After the white men got to Fiji it took only ten years to denude the forests of sandalwood. And beche-de-mer, a shallow ocean sea slug considered an aphrodisiac in Asia, was fished out in just 25 years. The Fijian people did not fare much better. Disease introduced from the outside, including measles brought back by the paramount chief after a state visit to Australia, reduced the population by nearly half in eighty years. By 1921 the Fijian population stood at 84,000, only 42% of the prediscovery population.
The late 1800's were exciting but lawless times in Fiji. The paramount chief, Cakobau, having barely survived his bout with measles, watched the resulting epidemic wipe out one third of his people. At the same time, an American con man who had set fire to his own home and trading post during a particularly spirited Fourth of July celebration managed to convince the American government to back his demands for $44,000 in damages from Cakobau. And in Levuka, the 2,000 or so settlers were getting restless. With American warships hovering nearby and the possibility of a US takeover in the wind, Cakobau decided to cede his kingdom to Great Britain.
For fifteen years after independence Fiji was governed by an Alliance government which appeared on the surface to be a model of social compromise. However, by 1985, a new Coalition party was formed which claimed to better represent the working people in Fiji, the majority of whom are Indian. The Coalition party, dedicated to eliminating the prerogatives of the chiefly oligarchy, won the elections in 1987 and threatened to turn Fijian politics on its ear. This proved to be too much for the extremist taukei (landowners).
The coups had a devastating effect on the Fijian economy. Fiji was thrown out of the Commonwealth, suffered an 11% decline in the gross domestic product, and lost thousands of Indian professionals and their families to overseas emigration: nearly 30,000 all told. But, like all predominantly agrarian peoples whose chiefs and politicians are constantly bickering, the people of Fiji, both Fijian and Indian, continued their normal lives with little attention paid to government. These people, with next to no help from above, put the country back on its feet.
While the Indian population in Fiji is specifically isolated from full representation in government, an argument can be made in support of the new Constitution: there are very few countries left in the world which are unambiguously ruled by their endemic people. And, in comparison to surrounding Pacific nations, Fiji is well-run and prosperous. No one starves in Fiji, and not too many of the powerful leaders are able to profit at the expense of their country. The people who live in Fiji are happy, despite the overtones of political unrest, and the visitor to the islands would never guess at the tumultuous history which has shaped the country.
It seems odd that a culture which was renown for their savage cannibalism barely more than one hundred years ago should be so peaceful and friendly now, but the overwhelming impression that is left on the foreign visitor or resident in Fiji is that these are the nicest people anywhere. Part of the reason, at least in respect to the Fijian people, is that they control their own destiny. Whereas many of the native peoples in the world are little more than guests in their own lands, powerless to express themselves against the press of outside forces, Fijians own their own land and have every reason to believe that it will always be thus. They welcome visitors to these islands openly and warmly, with none of the subsurface hostility which is so common in Micronesia and in the Caribbean.